![]() Processing C41 at home is easy, fast and convenient. Turn off the AC/heat to theĭrying area to reduce dust blowing onto the film.ġ0) Cut into strips and sleeve the film. ![]() Use a weighted clip at the bottom to avoid curling. ![]() Add an extra minute for each reuse of the bleach/Ĩ) Remove the film from the tank and rinse in beaker of wetting agent/water solution. Temperature as the developer to avoid possible micro bubble formation.Ħ) Add the bleach/fixer for 4 minutes. Stop solution or water should be at the same Quickly wipe off all water from the exterior and then 10 seconds before development timeĮnds, pour the contents of the tank into a cylinder to save it.ĥ) To stop, use either water rinses or a stop solution. Place the tank in the water bath.Īgitate for 5 seconds at 30 second intervals and then place the tank back in water bath.Ĥ) About 20 seconds before the full development time, remove the tank from the bath, The tank, and then tap gently to dislodge any air bubbles. Verify the developer temperature by inserting a cleanģ) Set the timer for the proper development time. By the time the temperature in the bath has dropped For 90 degree processing, I use a Rubbermaid dishpan with Pour the solutions into glass bottles with tight fitting caps and place theīottles into the water bath. Using a different graduated cylinder, measure 100 ml of bleach/fixer andĭilute to 300 ml. When you are finished loading the reel and have placed it in the tank and capped it, thenĢ) Measure 100ml of developer and diltute to a total volume of 300 ml using 200 ml ofĭistilled water. You will also need a scissors to cut the ends of the film. You will need somthing to open theĬannister. Know exactly where to reach for them in the dark. This is the key toġ) Load the film onto the reel in total darkness. If you process at 100 F, then the developer time is 3:15. You can process at a temperature as low as 90 degrees F to get a development time of 5:ĥ5. Shipping, so it's significantly cheaper to process at home than it is to use even aĬheap one-hour lab, but it's not not about saving money. Of 36 exposure in a single roll Jobo tank per kit. The dilution is 1 + 2, so you can easily process about 30 to 36 rolls (250ml to 300ml/roll) Times and an additional one minute to the bleach/fix times for each additional use. Although it's labeled as a one shotĭeveloper, you can use it 3 times by just adding an additional 5% to the development The kit consists of a literĮach of, 1) developer and, 2) bleach/fixer. The whole process from start to finish takes less than ten minutes, not counting the time necessary for temperature stabilization. You have to mix them rather exactingly but it's not nuclear science and they last for ages (the developer more than one year in concentrate form, the bleach, fix and final rinse for several years in well stoppered bottles). All my rolls have been fine, save one processed in contaminated developer (my fault, never again).ĭepending on your volume, you might want to buy the concentrates intended for mini-labs. Presently I have a Jobo processor but when I started I did it manually as described. The only critical step in terms of temperature is the developer, the rest have a very wide tolerance in temperature up and down and also in time (always try to err in excess). You start by warming a water bath (simple 2~3" deep plastic dish) to the correct temperature or a bit higher and letting the chemicals and loaded drum stabilize to the set temp. The goal temperature is 37.8C plus or minus 0.3C. The only extra investment is an electronic or mercury clinic type thermometer easily found for a few $$ at most pharmacies. Doing it is fairly easy and only a bit more exacting than B&W. I've been doing my own C-41 at home since I got fed up with local labs always returning the film with scratches, dust and even fingerprints.
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